French Louie: Buttermilk Channel Owners’ Second Act
Not that French Louie is worlds away from their original, much-loved eatery, either in proximity or spirit. Buttermilk Channel is essentially an American take on a Parisian bistro; French Louie flips it, adding touches of regional influence to a concept that’s mostly, well, French. In contrast to Buttermilk Channel’s rough-hewn communal tables and exposed brick walls, the sunny French Louie boasts all of the requisite brasserie touches—frosted glass and chrome bar, sconces and mirrors lining rows of graceful banquets—albeit fashioned from très Brooklyn materials like reclaimed wood and salvaged parts (which the team insists owes more to a lean budget than a desire to be au courant).
As for the menu, Angulo is mining not only Europe’s culinary traditions for inspiration but also the French enclaves of North America. And while you shouldn’t expect to find Quebec poutine or Creole gumbo, he’s not necessarily going the moules provençal and steak frites route either. Think Escargot with Grits, Foie Gras and Country Ham Terrine, Smoked Sardines with Dulse Butter, Point Judith Flounder Grenobloise, and Roasted King Mushroom with Fennel Soubise. “Thematically, what unites our two restaurants is the idea of being in an urban environment eating country food,” Crowell says.
As opposed to the dinner-only Buttermilk Channel (with the exception of that infamous, lines-around-the-block-brunch), French Louie will eventually become a whole-day affair, opening at 7am to tempt commuters with magazines, Bien Cuit pastries and coffee, followed by leisurely lunches in the afternoon and lively suppers at night. But for the meticulous restaurateurs, even thinking that far ahead is putting the cart before the horse. So be patient, because as Crowell and Angulo have consistently demonstrated, anything worth having is also well worth waiting for.
320 Atlantic Avenue, Boerum Hill
